Start with the light table — most problems announce themselves there.
What are the lights doing?
1 · Which light?
Show the full table
| What you see | What it means | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| All lights flash red → green → blue at power-on | Normal start-up | Wait for blue |
| Status 1 solid blue | Idle, nothing playing | Nothing |
| Status 1 solid green | Something's active — ambient audio, a running show, or a trigger | Nothing |
| Status 1 flashing purple | Pairing mode active (60-second window) | Enroll the device in the app now, or wait for it to time out and try again |
| Both status lights flashing orange | Recording in progress | Normal if expected |
| Status 1 flashing yellow, Status 2 dark | Manual output-test mode (Output 1 held 10 seconds) | Press Play or Record to exit |
| Status 2 flashing yellow/purple | An output is on but no current flows — nothing connected or a broken wire | Power off; re-check that output's wiring |
| Status 2 flashing red | Overcurrent trip on an output (over 1.4 A) | The output is cut immediately — check it for a short or overload; clears 10 seconds after current returns to normal |
| Both status lights flashing red/orange/yellow | Factory-reset countdown in progress | Release the reset buttons now if this wasn't intended |
| Both status lights solid red | Factory reset just triggered | Wait for reboot |
| Flashing light blue at power-on | Installing a firmware update from a MicroSD card | Wait — do not unplug |
| Green, 3 blinks at power-on | Firmware update installed — rebooting | Wait for reboot |
| Red, 6 blinks at power-on | No usable firmware file found on the card (wrong model or a corrupt file) | Check you have the PropX-Pro file |
| Numbered light 1–8 on | That output is on | Nothing |
Find your symptom
Re-seat both wires on one − + output pair (+ to +, − to −), then try the neighboring output numbers in the app. Status 2 flashing yellow/purple means the controller senses no load — a broken or loose wire.
Check the supply is 9–24 V DC and plugged in. On the power terminal, swap the + and − wires — reversed power is blocked harmlessly, so a swap and retry is safe.
First make sure the controller is in pairing mode — hold Record + Output 1 for 5 seconds until Status 1 flashes purple, then Scan within 60 seconds before it times out. More in pairing. Quick hits: move closer; close the app on other computers; power-cycle; on a Mac, System Settings → Bluetooth → Forget Device after a 15-second timeout.
Set WiFi from the app, under your controller's WiFi settings — see WiFi setup. If it won't connect, or connects and then drops:
- Check the band. The controller only supports 2.4 GHz. If your router shows separate 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz networks, or a "smart" combined one, make sure you're joining the 2.4 GHz side.
- Double-check the password — re-enter it in the app if there's any doubt; a wrong password fails silently more often than it errors.
- Move it closer to the router, at least for setup — weak signal causes both failed connections and later drop-outs.
- Router password or network name changed? Re-enter WiFi from the app; the controller won't pick up the change on its own.
No Bluetooth to reach it right now? The 5-minute setup network (propx-XXXXXX, password = the serial number on the label) is a fallback for that specific case — it lets you configure WiFi without the app, but it's not a general fix for "offline." See WiFi setup for what to do if it never appears.
Press VOL +, pick a file in the app, press play. Files must be MP3 under 32 MB. Power off and re-seat the speaker plug (+ to +, − to −); speakers must be 4–8 Ω. Upload says storage full? Delete files in the app or use a MicroSD card.
Set the real LED count in the app (up to 300). Flicker at high brightness means too much current — a full strip at full white draws about 4.5 amps; dim it, shorten it, or power the strip separately.
Electrical noise from speaker/power wiring reaching the sensor wires — the controller suppresses the worst of it. Route sensor wires away from speaker and power runs. A trigger that never fires: re-seat Input A/B (either way around) and power the sensor from Trigger Power.
Re-seat or replace the RJ45 cable in the PROG port, match the fixture's start address in the app — and check Mesh is off (Mesh turns DMX off). A mesh slave that stops answering (~2-second errors): re-seat the cable, give every slave its own ID, one master only.
See firmware updates — wrong-model files, "no WiFi", and file-check rejections are all covered there.
Still stuck?
Still stuck? support@propexperience.com — include your serial number, what the lights show, and what you were doing.
Email us — we respond within 24 hours. Include your serial number, what the lights show, and what you were doing.
support@propexperience.com